There are certain dishes from Hanoi that, the moment I hear their names, make my mouth water and fill me with a deep sense of nostalgia. Hanoi Crab Noodle Soup is one of those unforgettable classics. In Hanoi, this dish is an all-day favourite - breakfast, lunch or dinner, you'll find it steaming from food stalls on street corners or served up in cosy family kitchens.
I still remember the tightly knit team I used to work with. There were four of us, and we often ate together - sometimes for breakfast, sometimes lunch and even dinner when we worked until late. Hanoi Crab Noodle Soup was always high on our list of go-to dishes when we wanted something quick but heart-warming.
The crabs used to make this broth aren't the big, meaty kind you'd expect - they're tiny field crabs that live in the rice paddies around Hanoi. My Mum once told me that when she was little, living in a suburban province of Hanoi, she and her friends used to catch these crabs to help bring in a bit of extra income for the family.
These little crabs have travelled far - they're now exported all over the world as frozen food. Just last weekend, I was shopping at a Vietnamese supermarket in town when I spotted a pack of frozen field crabs. My eyes lit up. I grabbed a pack without hesitation and thought Hanoi Crab Noodle Soup it is then!
Once I got home, I thawed the crabs properly and gave them a good rinse under the tap. It's quite easy to remove the shells at this point - they carry that rich, dark yellow crab paste. My Mum often makes a dipping sauce from this crab paste, frying it with onions and tomatoes to serve with pressed rice noodles. But for the soup, it becomes part of the soul of the broth.
Traditionally, Hanoi Crab Noodle Soup starts with just rice noodles and the crab broth. But over time, a variety of toppings have made their way into the bowl - fried tofu, pork sausage, even rare beef. These additions make the soup even more enticing, both in flavour and appearance.
I started the broth at lucnhtime by popping some pork bones into the pressure cooker. That way, when it came time to cook dinner, my base was already full of flavour.
Once the pork broth was done, I turned my attention to the crabs. After rinsing them again, I removed their shells and placed the bodies into a blender. Traditionally, they would be mashed by hand using a mortar and pestle - but honestly, the blender makes it so much easier. Just a teaspoon of salt, blend until smooth and it's ready for the next step.
I added about a litre of water to the blender and used my hands (with gloves) to mix everything thoroughly. This helps to extract every bit of flavour from the crab meat. I strained the liquid into a pot, then repeated the process to make sure nothing was wasted. The leftover crab residue can be discarded.
With the crab liquid in a pot over medium heat, I stirred constantly to prevent it from sticking. With a few minutes, the crab meat began to foat to the top. You've got to watch closely, if you overboil, you risk losing all that lovely crab meat. I carefully scooped it out and set it aside for later.
Next, I added the pork broth to the same pot and brought it to a boil again. Meanwhile, I fried some tofu to have ready for the final assembly.
I sliced a few shallots and heated a tablespoon of oil in a pan over medium-high heat. Half of the shallots went in and once golden and fragrant, I added the crab paste I'd set aside earlier (using a toothpick or the tip of a small spoon to scrap out the paste from the shells). Gave it a good stir with a splash of fish sauce, the aroma at this point - so rich and inviting.
I transferred the stir-fried crab paste to the broth pot, rinsed the pan with a ladle of broth to get all the goodness and added that back in too.
Then I repeated the same process with the remaining shallots - fryign until golden, then adding tomato wedges and a couple of spoons of fish sauce. After a couple of minutes of sizzling, they joined the simmering broth as well.
Now for the taste test. I adjusted the seasoning with a bit more fish sauce and added a teaspoon of bown sugar to balance the savoury flavours. Traditionally, this is when a couple of tablespoons of Vietnamese rice wine vinegar would go in - but I used red wine vinegar instead, which has similar tang.
Very gently, I placed the cooked crab meat back into the broth so it wouldn't fall apart. A few pieces of fried tofu went in too, just enough to soak up that broth before serving.
To serve, I filled individual bowls with cooked round rice noodles (bún). On top of that went a few tofu squares, a couple of pork sausage slices and some rare beef that I had quickly blanched in the broth. A few spring onion slices added colour anf fresheness and I then ladled the hot, fragrant crab broth over everything. Don't forger to spoon in some of the delicate crab meat and a couple of tomato wedges for that full Hanoi Crab Noodle Soup experience.
I usually blanc some fresh salad vegetables to go alongside - whatever I've got in the fridge. Lettuce, mint, coriander, beansprouts - they all work beautifully. Just chop them roughly and dip them briefly in the boling broth before serving.
And there it is - Hanoi Crab Noodle Soup, a dish you can find on every street corner in Hanoi, served morning, noon and night. It's hearty, comforting, and packed with layers of flavour.
This dish might take a little more effort than your usual weekday meal, but it's more than worth it. It's not just food - it's memory, comfort and a taste of home for me. If you've got access to frozen field crabs, why not give hanoi Crab Noodle Soup a go this weekend?
Let me know if you do - I'd love to hear how yours turns out.
Hanoi Crab Noodle Soup (Bún Riêu Cứa Đậu Phụ Hà Nội) í a classic northern Vietnamese dish with a light yet flavourful crab and tomato broth. Served with rice noodles, fried tofu and tender crab meat, it's a comforting and aromatic soup enjoyed any tie of ay in Hanoi.
