Autumn is the most beautiful season in Hanoi. It leaves behind the unbearable heat and stickiness of summer and welcomes cooler air, golden sunshine and a gentle breeze. The streets are filled with falling leaves, the air is dry and it's also the season of Cốm (young sticky rice) - one of the most treasured delicacies of the capital.
This is the time I miss Hanoi the most. Whenever autumn arrives, I long for the fragrance of young rice wrapped in lotus leaves, a scent that stays forever in my memory. To create a little piece of that feeling here in the UK, I made Xôi Cốm Hạt Sen Dừa for breakfast today - a dish that reminds me of Hanoi mornings.
Cốm is a traditional Vietnamese delicacy made from young, green sticky rice kernels harvested in early autumn. The process is delicate and entirely manual. Young sticky rice is harvested by hand, then roasted over very low heat until the grains become soft and aromatic. These softened grains are pounded gently in a mortar and pestle, which removes their husks and flatten them into a unique, chewy texture. Further information about Cốm can be found here.
Cốm can be enjoyed on its own, as a simple and fragrant snack. When I was little, my Mum would return from the market with a parcel of Cốm wrapped in a lotus leaf and tied with rice straws. As soon as it was unwrapped, the entire kitchen was filled with the sweet fragrance of young sticky rice and lotus. My treat back then was only a ripe banana to eat with Cốm - simple yet unforgettable. That's a childhood memory I still treasure deeply.
Xôi Cốm Hạt Sen Dừa is a speciality of Northern Vietnam, especially in Hanoi during autumn. It's made of steamed cốm mixed with mung beans, lotus seeds and freshly shredded coconut. Unlike savoury sticky rice dishes, this one is lightly sweetened, making it a popular breakfast or afternoon snack.
But Xôi Cốm Hạt Sen Dừa is more than just food, it's a cultural symbol. For Hanoi's, this dish captures the essence of autumn: gentle, fragrant and nostalgic.
If you happen to visit Hanoi in autumn, you'll see street corners where women in pointy hats carry baskets of young sticky rice balanced on their shoulders. From those baskets comes cốm, xôi cốm, bánh cốm...attracting passers-by looking for a Hanoi autumn treat. It's a picture of Hanoi life that stays with you long after you've left the city.
Steam the soaked mung beans until soft. Blend briefly to a grainy texture. Transfer to a large mixing bowl then add a pinch of salt and some caster sugar. Mix well.
Add the young sticky rice into the bowl of mung beans, mixing until every grain is coated. Stir in a splash of coconut milk for creaminess.
Transfer the mixture to a steamer and steam for 10-15 minutes until fragrant and tender.
Turn off the heat and immediately stir in the cooked lotus seeds and shredded coconut. Mix gently so everything is well distributed.
And there you have it, a bowl of Xôi Cốm Hạt Sen Dừa, fragrant with young sticky rice, creamy mung beans, soft lotus seeds and crunchy coconut. Each bite captures the essence of Hanoi's autumn.
For me, this dish is not just breakfast - it's a piece of home, a memory wrapped in the scent of lotus leaves and young rice. If you ever visit Hanoi in autumn, don't miss the chance to try it fresh from a street vendor's bamboo basket. And if you're far away like me, cooking it at home brings that little bit of Hanoi's autumn to your table.
If you enjoyed making Xôi Cốm Hạt Sen Dừa, you might also want to take a look at my Chả Cốm (Young Sticky Rice Sausage) recipe. It's another Hanoi classic made with young sticky rice but this time in a savoury form. Together, these two dishes show just how versatile and special cốm is in Vietnamese cuisine.
Xôi Cốm Hạt Sen Dừa is a traditional Hanoi delicacy made with young sticky rice, mung beans, lotus seeds, and shredded coconut. Fragrant, lightly sweet, and beautifully chewy, this dish is the taste of Hanoi’s autumn in every bite. Perfect for breakfast, snack, or as a cultural experience on your table.
