Hanoi has always been our first stop whenever we return to Vietnam and for me, it’s so much more than just a city on our itinerary – it’s my hometown. It’s where I was born and raised, where my parents live and where my closest friends and connections are. (Hanoi street photo credit: Vietnam.travel)
Getting there
For this trip, we flew with British Airways (operated by Qatar Airways) because my husband had Avios points to spend and we liked the idea of breaking the long journey with a stopover. It was comfortable, but If I’m honest, I still prefer flying direct with Vietnam Airlines. Not just for convenience but also because my husband and I met on a Vietnam Airlines flight from Hanoi to London, though that’s a story for another day.
Arrival in the July heat
Stepping out of Noi Bai Airport, the familiar sticky warmth of Hanoi summer hit us – 35°C and 75% humidity. If you visit in July, be prepared for the heat. Thankfully, the increasingly warm UK summer meant we were already somewhat acclimatised.
We booked a car and driver from inside the airport, avoiding the crowd of taxi drivers outside. It cost a little more but was worth it for the flat fee, upfront payment and the convenience of walking straight to the car, with the driver ready to help with our luggage. The drive into the city along the Nhat Tan Bridge route took about 45 minutes.
Staying at Hotel de L’Opera MGallery
Our go-to hotel in Hanoi is the Hotel de L’Opera MGallery, perfectly located on Trang Tien Street in the heart of the city. This boutique hotel has everything we love: a cosy atmosphere, helpful staff, spacious rooms, a great breakfast buffet and the best location for exploring the Old Quarter.
As loyal guests, we were upgraded to the Grand Suite with a view of the Opera House – a lovely touch. The suite had a sitting room, pantry, dining area and a large bedroom with a beautiful ensuite. Details throughout the room added both comfort and elegance. Drinks and nibbles were available all day at the bar at no cost for us, which made it an ideal spot to meet friends or simply relax.
Our daughter loved the small covered pool on the third floor, perfect for a daily splash. Breakfast here is another reason we keep coming back. The variety is impressive:
- Fresh pastries and bread
- Traditional local dishes such as hot noodle soups and steamed rolls
- Full English breakfast options
- A vast selection of juices, tropical fruits and fresh salads
- And more…
The spread is generous enough to keep us full well past lunchtime. It became our daily routine – a morning swim followed by a generous breakfast, setting us up for the day of exploring.
Meeting friends & Hanoi’s coffee culture
For me, Hanoi is about reconnecting with loved ones. In Vietnam, meeting up usually means sharing a meal or at least having coffee or tea together. Hanoi’s coffee culture is thriving, with countless cafes tucked into every street. Near the hotel, we often stopped at Highland Coffee, one of the country’s most beloved chains and Runam, which serves elevated Vietnamese dishes and wide range of drinks in a lovely atmosphere.
Exploring the Old Quarter
The Old Quarter around Hoan Kiem Lake is always buzzing with life. Early mornings here are magical – tai chi by the lake, street vendors setting up and the fragrance of breakfast cooking. French colonial architecture and tree-lined boulevards give the area a unique charm.
If you’re in Hanoi over the weekend, don’t miss the pedestrianised streets around the lake, perfect for leisurely stroll, people-watching and coffee stops.
Where to eat Phở in Hanoi
We didn’t make it to our favourite Pho spots this time because the hotel breakfast was so satisfying but if you want authentic Vietnamese noodle soup, I recommend:
- Pho Ly Quoc Su, 10 Ly Quoc Su Street, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
- Pho Bat Dan, 49 Bat Dan Street, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
- Pho Thin, 13 Lo Duc Street, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
- Pho Tu Lun, 34 Au Trieu, Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
- Pho Ga Nguyệt, 5B Phu Đoàn, Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Don’t forget – you can find my homemade recipes for both Pho Bo (Beef Noodle Soup) and Pho Ga (Chicken Noodle Soup) on my website.
Favourite restaurants in Hanoi
A Bản – Mountain Dew
Inspired by the culture of northwestern Vietnam, A Bản serves authentic Mông, Tày, Mường cuisine. The lush garden and colourful dining room reflect the region’s heritage and the menu includes unique ingredients such as buffalo, river fish and regional herbs.
Our daughter adored the grilled pork belly and rainbow sticky rice, while we enjoyed a fresh fish dish and a couple of vibrant salads. The drinks were also refreshing.
Ngon Garden
This restaurant offers an extensive menu of traditional Vietnamese dishes, from breakfast to dinner, in a lively, garden-like setting. It’s great option for big groups and reminds me of the original Quán Ăn Ngon concept from 20 years ago.
Pizza 4P’s – When the Pizza craving hits
After a few days of eating local dishes, we found ourselves craving pizza and in Vietnam, that means one place: Pizza 4P’s. It’s my husband’s absolute favourite pizza restaurant, not just in Vietnam but in the world. Founded in 2011 by Japanese entrepreneurs, the name 4P’s stands for Passion, Purpose, Pleasure and Pizza. Their farm-to-table philosophy means high-quality, locally sourced ingredients, including their famous house-made cheese.
During our short stay in Hanoi, we went twice and both times, the food was flawless. The only downside was one visit where a few young customers nearby spent the entire time taking selfies with their camera flash on. It was a little distracting and took away the cosy atmosphere, but on the food side, everything was perfect.
Our favourite starters included:
- Fried chicken with oriental spice (our daughter’s pick)
- Parma ham wrap with rocket and ricotta (you can find my homemade recipe here)
- Burrata with organic rocket and tomato salad
For mains, their half-half pizzas are perfect for trying different toppings on their super-thin base. We kept returning to:
- 3 mushroom
- 4 cheese with honey drizzle (trust me, it’s divine)
- Aubergine
- Chicken teriyaki
We also loved the Clam and basil sauce spaghetti and the Crab cream spaghetti with ricotta (our son’s favourite). And of course, dessert was a must – the house-made frozen yoghurt, rich Vietnamese cacao terrine with vanilla ice cream and Greek yoghurt panna cotta with tropical fruit sauce were all outstanding.
More food recommendations
If you’re planning your own Hanoi food tour, these are my other favourite spots:
- Uu Dam Chay – My favourite vegetarian restaurant in Hanoi
- La Badiane – Elegant French cuisine
- Bún Chả Đường Thành – Traditional grilled pork with noodles (my homemade recipe here)
- Hanoi Garden – Local dishes in a charming setting
- Bánh Cuốn Bà Hoành – Steamed rice rolls (my homemade recipe here)
- Chả Cá Lã Vọng – 14 Cha Ca Street – Iconic turmeric fish with dill (recipe here)
- Bún Bò Nam Bộ Bách Phương – Traditional beef noodle salad (my recipe here)
Travel tips for visiting Hanoi
- Best time to visit: autumn and early winter, between October and December for cooler weather and low humidity.
- Transport around the city: using Xanh SM and Grab apps.
- Stay: choose a central location near Hoan Kiem Lake for easy exploring.
- Food: Try both street food and sit-down restaurants for the full Hanoi experience.
Hanoi will always be home for me, a city of rich culture, delicious food and warm hospitality. From the Old Quarter’s buzzing streets to relaxing at our favourite hotel, every visit blends nostalgia with new discoveries. It’s a place that captures your heart and keeps you coming back.
I’d love to hear from you – share your questions or your own Hanoi experiences in the comments below!
Please note: All photos in this post were taken by me and are copyrighted, unless credited otherwise.
